Dankaert Lexicon Interview

Eric Renderking Fisk | February 22nd, 2016

Eric Renderking Fisk: Let's start with the question everyone wants to be answered... how did you get into costume replica or dieselpunk? And tell us about your background. What brought you tho this moment and place?

Dankaert Lexicon: During my youth I was one of those people that didn’t fit in. I was interested in about everything, from fiction to science, but never discovered my true passion. This becomes a problem when your trapped in an educational system that makes you choose a career before you even know what you want to do. I also suffer for something akin to dyslexia.

There were off course things I liked. Painting Warhammer miniatures was one of my first passions. I actually won prizes. It was also the first time I made real friends. We painted Warhammer. Started playing RPG’s. It was a community were my skills were appreciated. I was also the proud owner of a Sega 16-bit Megadrive. And because I could be successful at painting and gaming, I gave these priority over my education.

So my education was a bit of a mess. I tried becoming a programmer, a history teacher, twice, but ended up as a history bachelor with no clue what I wanted to do. But these were the years university bachelors could become anything! A idea I found very appealing.

Than then the crash of 2008 happened. When I got out of university that year there were no jobs to be had. So after all that struggling, I got nowhere very slowly.

Thanks to a government program and the wonderful support of my parents I got the opportunity to acquire one of those pieces of paper and actually I got to work for a couple of years and finally buy my current home.

There were some highlights though. When I was eighteen I started with fourteenth century reenactment with the then unknown Compagny of Cranenburgh. These days the group is a staple of Dutch late medieval reenactment and it’s chairman Menno Brouwers has his own eventagency ‘Cranenburgh Events’.

I still remember it. We sat in the schoolcantina and Menno said: ‘I want to start my own medieval mercenary company.’

I replied immediately: ‘I always wanted to do that!’ 

I wanted to try larp, but believed it to be to nerdy; even for my standards. Also my historical-sensibilities objected. But a historical group that actually investigated medieval tactics and even had steel swords! Big battles! I’m sold!

It’s a honor to have been there when the Company started, for I still believe it is something really special. I’ve been it most experienced fighter (and showfighter) and trained dozens of people with spears and swords.
Within this group I literally rising through the ranks. Becoming both the second in command and also taking place on the board for a couple of years. Because all the odds Imagine, a socially awkward boy forced in a position of authority with genuine responsibilities on safety, leadership and finances. Uncomfortable to say the least, but responsibilities once acquired also hard to let go. For fourteen years this was a place were I belonged, more then with Warhammer or previous hobbies. But something in me already realized I had to move on, and age thirty-one, I did.

Let’s go back a decennia. I think I might have been eighteen. I already heard of Steampunk somewhere, from the GURPS Steampunk rpg-book. But it was a cover from a club magazine which depicted a fantasy elf with a futuristic device on her belt. I loved that anachronistic element. 
My real passion for steampunk came through Japanese anime. I loved series like Trigun, Escaflowne and other that combine the old and the new. I started identifying it with Steampunk when the series Last Exile was launched in 2003. Not only did it have awesome airship battles I haven’t seen anywhere else since, it also had great Arte Deco-inspired designs by Range Murata. The world was culturally diverse and drew inspiration from multiple cultures and timeperiods, and included antiquated idea’s on chivalry and feudalism. This series has a great influence on my own stories and designs to this day. 

The point of no return started after another failed attempt to become a teacher. I needed help to find something I could be successful at. Then my mother showed me a advertisement of a Lifestyle Coach. She is a kind woman, although here approach is a bit, alternative. But It worked. She advised me to write fiction. Something I, after the trauma called university, never thought I would do. But I did as she suggested and encouraged me to keep at it. And I did. I wrote short stories, and am still working on a manuscript. It didn’t stop there. In 2012 the first Steampunk Emporium Vernesque  was organized in the Netherlands by Theresia Waalderbos and Rosies Art. I never did anything with fantasy costumes, but did have a taste for military coats. So I volunteered for the event and had the best time in a long time. That tiny Steampunk event inspired me to explore the idea’s behind Steampunk and how to improve and use it’s concepts in the public sphere. That is how I started with Tupperware Steampunk. A blog were I spout my nonsense and did interviews with notable Steamers. Some people take it seriously; they have started to call me the Steampunk Goeroe behind my back. It also became the reason I created a narcissistic socialite called Dankaert Lexicon and finally lead to the creation of a Steampunk-inspired group called the Regiment Anachronistic Grenadiers – Tactical Artificer Group… But most people call it RAG-TAG.

Eric Renderking Fisk: Let's talk about the community again for a second because something you said caught my attention, the fact that the only place you felt comfortable being yourself is with groups of like-minded people, especially in anachronistic settings with other people with similar interests. That seems to be a reoccurring theme; many of us in the retrocentric world gravitate towards groups of like-minded people where we can simply feel normal. I’m consistently reading about how many of us only feel like we belong when we’re at conventions or during game night playing RPG, and just chatting on-line about costume creation.
Many fellow nerds, geeks, cosplayers and dieselpunkers have all credited our groups for changing and even saving their lives.
How important have these groups been to you and how have these groups changed or influenced your life outside of them? Have some of those relationships spilled into the everyday ‘normal’ world?
Dankaert Lexicon: There are many reasons why certain people are attracted to these communities. Like mindedness and similar interests are the most obvious ones. But I don’t think most important ones.

To start with the last question. Within these communities, skills that go unappreciated by mainstream society, are accepted and praised. Skills like gaming, tanning leather, miniature painting that often frowned upon, viewed as eccentricities, or even things to be feared. The whole stir about violence and sexism and videogaming are a great example of this.

Family-members will often tell us to get an education or learn some, ‘real skills’. Skills that don’t excite us or inspire us in anyway. Yet, we are encouraged to waste away in an office because everybody else does. Hell, I do it to. But I have a lot to look forward to during the day. Because when I am home, I can finally finish that door I was working on, order those part on Ebay, check for updates on the upcoming DLC for Fallout 4, and arrange things for my upcoming events. All financed by my dead end job.

Funny thing is, people with likeminded interests have dead end jobs to. And they like to talk to people with like-minded interests and what to help each other. This way I got some contacts in my field for future assignments.

People have this need to identify themselves with their hobbies. Reënactors and Gamers have a very specific set of rituals, symbols, interests and activities. They even create their own language that only the initiated can understand. It creates a bond, but is kind of scary to outsiders.
Then there is the mental and physical health issue. But it’s important! People who are handicapped, in one way or another, are often treated as alien, weird or helpless. They are identified by what they can’t do, and not by what they can. These people often become introvert, paranoid or feel stigmatized. They cannot learn, ‘Real skills’, or don’t get the chances they need to develop in a competitive environment. As a result they have little selfworth because they can’t contribute or keep pace. And the things they can do, well…

Alternative communities create a atmosphere were people can experiment at their own leisure. They are not judged by their disabilities, but by their skill and creativity. They can pretend to be somebody else who is braver then them. More patient, or more objective. These traits are slowly transferred to themselves. The learn to focus on what they can do, and not one what they can’t.

It’s a meritocracy. I was asked to become a infantry officer in my company because I was the most experienced, not because I wanted to act as one. All of a sudden I got responsibilities, had to lead people in battle demonstrations, learn to observe my surrounds in the field and watch out for others people’s safety. I still remember how overwhelming that was. Pikeman in front of me. Real blackpowder guns at our flank. Watch out, and warn soldiers, for incoming arrows. The battles became larger, our demonstrations more elaborate. I led and served under banners I never fought under before. My chainmails became more accurate and durable. I taught my knowledge to beginners and learned new skills from others. We worked together the create the notoriety of The Company of Cranenburgh and it’s high standard for authenticity.

As for myself, doing things became less an issue of, ‘can I?’ I did things I could only dream about as a kid. So much so, I lost interest. I had done everything that was there to be done. I acted, led entire armies and was well respected for my abilities with spears and swords. I became more extrovert, and more decisive. I needed this knowledge experience to make Tupperware Steampunk and RAG-TAG what it is today. All thanks to the reenactment community.

Eric Renderking Fisk: Let’s talk about your creative process, starting at the beginning. How do you come up with your ideas and then make the plans and get moving. Also, tell us about your favorite materials to work with.

Dankaert Lexicon: I don’t have any favorite materials. Maybe wood and paint if you count my Retrofuturistic apartment. I am a collector. I love militaria and history inspires me. I make up costumes the same way I write my stories. I think of a theme, what kind of character would fit that theme. What kind of objects does such a character use, and what symbolizes his background. When I look at a costume I want to know what I am looking at, without having to guess at the portrayed characters profession.

When the base is done, I expand the concept organically. All my characters are used in specific activities, so it’s gear often adepts according to what works and what doesn’t. For my RAG-TAG character I need a functional uniform, and props that don’t get stuck behind camonets or other obstacles when running an obstacle course for kids. Dankaert Lexicon is a socialite and spy. So he has his own version of the Pipboy because he needs it. It’s how I expanded his profession to that of being a hacker as well.

A friend of mine, Niels Dijkstra who owns Rattles and Wheels, makes most of my more complicated stuff. Because Dutch makers appreciate my work on Tupperware Steampunk they also help me with their skills. I like the idea that more people contributed to my alterego’s.

Eric Renderking Fisk: If you go back far enough, costume replication (cosplay) and amateur costume designs were very different before the age of the internet? How do you think the internet has changed things over the past 10 years, and how can it get better?

Dankaert Lexicon: I can’t say for sure there is any difference. But the bar has gone down considerably. I was a reenactor back then. Going to fantasy events like Elfia or Castlefest, some of the largest in Europe, was a novelty for us. There were some good costumes of course, but all I remember from that time was a realistic looking Klingon... And us laughing at the horrible looking larpers.

Reenactment and Medieval Martial Arts were very young, and Cosplay, as a word, was really new here in the Netherlands. Cosplay, as in dressing up as anime or movies characters, still is a separate thing these days. I went to three Con’s and on two of them I was the only Steamers there. To get impressed stares from Cosplayers was, odd, to say the least.
I think the internet helped the rise of Cosplay in the Netherlands. It was the best way for the Dutch audience to get any anime and bring the concept of Cosplay over here. Before that is was all fantasy, historical and some Scifi, until about 2010 give or take. A kind of Renaissance Fair plus so to speak. Access to new entertainment through the internet changed that.
Social Media is also a critical tool for organizers. I visited my first Con on a whim when I saw a notification on Facebook. But it wasn’t for me. Con’s and Festivals are both geared towards completely different audiences.
At the costume end of things the internet has made great changes. When I started with reenactment, the scene was kind of a barren landscape. We needed to discover everything ourselves or happen to know people who could teach us certain skills. Now, there are Who-To-Video’s for, everything! And if they don’t exist you get on Facebook and, just ask. The same goes for materials and props. There are countless webstores, Etsy-pages, and fb-groups were they offer used-items. The bar is lower then ever. And might get lower still.

As for how it can get better. Promote innovation! Not in how to make costumes, but to make the hobby challenging. Making costumes is fine, but if all anyone ever does is walking around in these, the whole thing grows stale. Goth is a good example. Over here, many grow tired of the black Victorian look. There are only so many shades of black after all. As soon Steampunk appeared many sought new challenges over there. And now many talented designers are leaving Steampunk because they got tired of the Goths-in-Brown look and the lack of innovation in both costumes and activities. I think it is no coincidence things like Thea-Dueling and Theapot racing became so prevalent. People love to compete and face challenges. But it seems they don’t realize it. If this doesn’t change, I am convinced certain scenes are soon replaced with whatever is the next fed. Which is a shame, because I believe Steampunk is unique in the way it has a wide range of applications, not just in entertainment, but also in cultural and educational sectors. Take Bruce and Melanie Rosenbaum, of Modvic, who use Steampunk in a approach to help children with autism

Eric Renderking Fisk: What new technologies are going to change cosplay in the near future in dramatic ways?

Dankaert Lexicon: All I can think of is 3D printing. I know many designers and Steammakers in the Netherlands who are already creating parts with this technology and many others show interest. Hell, you can build your own 3D printers with DIY kits and the final parts you print yourself. When this becomes a more consumers friendly product, and were getting there, it could really level the playingfield between the, Can and Cannot’s, as more elaborate items become more affordable. However I can imagine see how many of the more conservative of us would object to this development. Also the market would have to adapt. Better start early.

Eric Renderking Fisk: What do you see happening in the future for this hobby? And what are you working on now, what do we have to look forward to from you in the not-too-distant future?

Dankaert Lexicon: 3D printer is going to be a factor. It’s unavoidable. But recycling materials and handy crafts will remain a thing. But there will be less money in it.  

As for the Community. Cosplay is getting more popular in the Netherlands and more Con’s geared towards anime and comic fans become more frequent. The Costume community as a whole grows, but festivals come and go. These really depend on the local population for visitors and with the amount of entertainment to the Dutch public it is hard get even.

The Dutch Steampunk community is in a kind of slum right now. I blame the lack of innovation along Steamers for this. Organizers lose interest in so called entertainment groups who consider, Thematic Camping, entertainment.

But some new groups have formed how are more oriented on the public instead of themselves and Steampunk. If you want my complete thought on this, and why I think this is essential, you’ll have to visit my blog Tupperware Steampunk. I have been advocating this for two years now and some people seem to have taken this to heart. But now they have to prove themselves.