"Papa's House," Hemingway's Special Views

We were allowed to climb onto the balcony, which afforded a breathtaking view of the lush Cuban landscape.

As we made our way to the rear of the house many of the issues that threaten the structural integrity of the Finca Vigia were visible. There was extensive mold and water damage, and large cracks in the walls gave evidence of the shifting and crumbling foundation. We were informed that there was also extensive termite damage. This combined with its location on the side of a hill puts the house in a very real danger of eventual collapse.

The large pool itself was drained, which was probably just as well. Considering it was late May we probably would have been tempted to jump in had it had been full, which would probably have not gone over well with our host.

Near to the pool we found the cemetery where Hemingway had buried his favorite pets – complete with headstones.

Past the pool area and at the end of the walkway sat Hemingway’s boat, the Pilar. Set on a concrete base, the 40 foot boat is kept under an open air timber covering. As we walked around the boat with the bamboos swaying in the breeze, there was that same eerie, haunted feel we had experienced at the house.*

As we left the house and made our way back down the driveway, I could understand part the depression Hemingway must have felt not being able to return to such a beautiful home. It has been theorized by some that this could have been one of numerous factors that lead him to eventually commit suicide.

Before leaving we expressed our thanks to our guide, and she actually thanked us for the opportunity to spend time with what she described as "such a happy and close family."

In 2005, three years after our visit, the National Trust for Historic Preservation labeled Finca Vigía as one of the eleven most endangered historic places in America. While both Cuban and American preservation experts are trying to work together to reverse the effects of time and the elements on the home and its contents, significant political obstacles stand in their way. The continuing U.S. trade embargo has made it difficult if not impossible for Americans to donate money for the preservation and restoration. With recent changes in the political situation in Cuba it will be interesting to see if any progress is made before time finally takes its toll.

Regardless, we were thankful for our brief visit to a place that is a bridge between Cuban and American cultures, and will always have fond memories of our time at "Papa’s House…"

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